Eggs, Eggs & yet more eggs

Eggs are wonderful things, they look nice and taste nice, and they are just brilliant if you start keeping chickens and you get your first laid egg. There are brown ones, blue, white ones, yellow ones, pink ones, speckledy ones, green ones and chocolate ones.

On this page we are putting lots of egg advice with regards to colours, egg problems, different shapes and sizes. Also how to store your eggs.

Egg Storage

Storage Type Duration
In Fridge - Whole 5 Weeks
In Fridge - Whites sealed in jar 4 Days
In Fridge - Yolks covered with water 2 Days
In Fridge - Hard Boiled in shells 2 Weeks
Boiled, Peeled & Pickled 6 Months
Frozen Whole 12 Months
Eggs kept out of the fridge 10 Days
Store eggs in a cool, dry place, ideally in the fridge.Store eggs apart from other foods. It’s a good idea to use your fridge’s egg tray, if you have one, because this helps to keep eggs separate.Don’t use eggs after their 'Best before' date.Don’t use eggs with damaged shells, because dirt or bacteria might have got inside them.Eat dishes containing eggs as soon as possible after you've prepared them, but if you're not planning to eat them straight away, cool them quickly and then keep them in the fridge.

Egg Sizes

Egg Size Weight
Very Large Over 73g
Large 63 - 73g
Medium 53 - 63g
Small Under 53g

Egg Problems

Wind egg

This is a small egg with no yolk. It is fairly common when a pullet is first coming into lay. It is not important and can be ignored, unless the pullet continues to lay such eggs. Wind eggs can also occur in older hens if they are subject to sudden shock.

Eggs with pale yolks 

Yolks will be automatically paler in winter as the grass is not growing and there is nothing wrong with this. Customers prefer deeper yolks, however, often having the erroneous perception that such eggs are more ‘free-range and natural’.

Eggs with vivid orange yolks

Too much yolk colour pigment in the feed, either artificial or natural. The Roche scale is the standard way of determining degrees of yellow-orange in the yolk.

A Double Yolker

This is fairly common with large eggs and is not a problem unless you are using the eggs for incubation. This occurs when two yolks are released into the oviduct at the same time and are then encased by one shell. It can also be caused by a sudden shock.

Egg with blood on the shell

This is often the result of straining on the part of the hen, where large eggs are involved. It may also be the case with a pullet first coming into lay. Avoid giving pullets too much artificial light until they are well grown before the commencement of lay. If the shells have small spots of blood on them, rather than streaks, then suspect the presence of red mites. Treat with an anti-mite preparation from the vet or specialist suppliers.

Egg with blood spots inside

This is usually the result of blood escaping from the ovarian follicle and becoming embedded in the albumen. It can sometimes be the result of shock or stress and normally rights itself. There is some evidence that there is a hereditary tendency for this condition, so avoid breeding from such a hen.

Fertile eggs

If hens are running with a cock the chances are that they will be laying fertile eggs. These should not be offered for sale for they cause offence to many consumers. Registered producers are required by the egg marketing regulations to produce eggs with, ‘a yolk that is free of foreign bodies’. There is considerable misconception about this subject, with people making varied claims such as: ‘hens lay better when there is a cock with them’, and ‘fertile eggs are more healthy and nutritious’. In fact, the opposite is the case with both claims. With the former, there is a greater risk of disease transference, as well as physical damage to hens from the male’s spurs. With the latter, there is a greater risk of disease-transference into the egg. Traditionally, breeding flocks and laying flocks were kept quite separate, as they still are with free-range flocks today. If you have your hens running with a cock and don’t object to eating fertile eggs, that is of course your own business, but selling them to others should be avoided.

Soft-shelled eggs

The first pullet egg may be soft-shelled until her system gets into its stride. If it continues, make sure that the birds are getting a balanced diet such as that provided by a commercial free-range or organic layer’s ration. Such feeds will usually contain calcium and phosphorus in the right ratio (around 3.5-4% calcium to 0.3% phosphorus). Providing a little crushed oyster-shell or calcified seaweed will ensure that any deficiency is rectified, for the birds will not take more than they require.

Dark shells becoming pale

Shells that are normally dark brown may become lighter for a number of reasons, including stress, illness or lack of appropriate food. The main reason, however, is strong sunlight on the back of the hens. Ensure that there are enough shaded areas for them on their ranging area.

Eggs with watery albumen

This is more common in hot weather than at other times of the year. It is also more frequent in older hens. Occasionally it can be a reaction to vaccination. In this case, a multi-vitamin supplement in the water can help. Infectious bronchitis, referred to above may also be the cause in an unvaccinated flock. If the condition persists, veterinary advice should be sought.

Middle-banded egg

A sudden shock can cause a temporary halting within the egg-laying system. If there is an egg there at the time, it may end up with an extra band or ridge around it. They are normally nothing to worry about, as long as the flock is not subjected to regular disruptions.

Misshapen eggs

These differ from middle-banded eggs in having a range of distortions, including soft ends and uneven or ribbed surfaces. Thin patches or excessively chalky areas may also be seen. They are more common with older hens, but may also indicate a disease such as Infectious bronchitis or egg drop syndrome (either present or past). If the condition persists, veterinary advice should be sought.

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